Cultivation FAQ
Can I put my hardy fuchsia's, which I
bought at the show (late July), straight in the garden?
Can I plant this flowering fuchsia In the
middle of my tub?
When is the best time to plant hardy
fuchsias?
Can I grow standard
fuchsias as hardy plants In the garden?
When do I prune my fuchsias In the garden?
How do I feed my
fuchsias?
How do I feed my Fuchsias?
We are told that fuchsias
should be potted on to the next size pot only, is this true?
Can you turn any fuchsia
into a fuchsia tree. If so, how is it done?
How can I grow Texas
Longhorn?
I have several standard fuchsias planted
in a border and one of the plants looked it hadn't had any water for a long time?
What Fuchsias make good Hanging Baskets?
The Fuchsia I have been cultivating for
our show is flowering too soon. How do I hold it back?
What are the optimum pinching dates to
make a fuchsia flower in time for the show?
When is the best time to replant fuchsias?
Are Fuchsias Annual or Perennial?
Growing Fuchsias from Seed.
Pruning back an Overwintered Standard.
I have left my fuchsias too long in
hibernation and they have spurted in the dark.
Is it possible to take fuchsias back to
Japan?
Are there any fuchsias that are Orange?
Is it possible to purchase cuttings or
small fuchsia plants this time of year (July/August)?
Can i plant my hardy fushias in hanging
baskets? If so, how do I look after them when winter comes?
I have a standard fuchsia, which he has
over wintered in our garden shed. When and how should I prune it?
One of our overwintered standards is not
doing too well (abridged question). Can you help?
How do I start Hybrisiding Fuchsias?
Can you tell me whether too much horse
manure is bad for fuchsias, or just better?
Do I have something special?
How do I take cutting from my Fuchsias?
How do I get Fuchsia seeds?
Sun or Shade - What is best for Fuchsias?
How do I Graft Fuchsias?
How do I make my own Compost?
How to Overwinter Standards?
My new Standard is wilting!
What is the best planting site for hardy
fushias?
Pruning Standard Fuchsias New
If you have a question that is not covered by this FAQ, or any other
part of this web site, then you can email
it to us and we will try to get an answer for you.
Question: Can I put
my hardy fuchsia's, which I bought at the show (late July), straight in the garden?
Answer:
No it is too late in the season to plant it in the garden. It will not
make enough root now to survive the winter.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: Can I
plant this flowering fuchsia In the middle of my tub?
Answer:
You can, but plant it in its pot. Bury the pot, you will find that the
roots will spread a little over the top and through the bottom. Once a fuchsia starts to
flower it will not make a lot more root and cannot cope with a lot of fresh compost.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: When is
the best time to plant hardy fuchsias?
Answer:
I would recommend that you plant them middle to end of May and
definitely no later than the end of June. Plants should preferably be from pot size 4 inch
upward and not pot bound. Plant them 1 1/2 inches deeper than they are in the pot. Some
potting compost can be mixed with surrounding soil to acclimatise them to the new
conditions. Don't forget to top dress your hardy fuchsias in the spring with a handful of
fertiliser.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: Can I grow
standard fuchsias as hardy plants In the garden?
Answer:
No, a standard fuchsia will not survive a winter in the garden . If it
is a hardy variety and you leave it out, the top growth will be killed by the frost and it
will shoot from the base .
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: When do I
prune my fuchsias In the garden?
Answer:
You may like to just tidy them up at the end of the summer, but you
should leave the main pruning until the middle of March. Prune off approx. two thirds of
previous seasons growth. After a severe winter you will probably find shoots will appear
from below soil level, in which case all dead growth can be pruned away.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: How do I
feed my fuchsias?
Answer:
Fuchsias do like to be fed. The food in fresh compost will last approx.
six weeks, depending on frequency of watering. After this supplementary feeding can begin.
I favour a quart strength feed at every watering,. For general fuchsia growing use a
balanced feed. During a hot summer your plants will not need extra potash as they derive
this from sunlight. An occasional feed of high nitrogen will be beneficial to discourage
them from wooding up prematurely.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: How do I
feed my Fuchsias?
Answer:
Once your plants are potted on, the fertiliser within the compost has a
life of only about 6 weeks. After this time fertiliser needs to be used. Liquid feeds are
the best as feeding can be carried out as part of the general watering or summer evening
'ritual'. Fuchsias are gross feeders and require a balanced diet, but the roots of all
plants can only take up food in liquid form. The leaves of plants will take a small amount
of food from the air which surrounds them. The basic requirements of a fertiliser for
Fuchsias are:
- NITROGEN (N): to stimulate growth,
- PHOSPHATES (P): to stimulate root development;
- POTASH(K): to prevent soft growth and improve the colour, quantity and size of flowers.
Trace elements are also contained in a balanced feed. Magnesium
deficiency can be rectified by I tablespoon of Epsom Salts to I gallon of water. Nothing
is gained by overfeeding. Too much nitrogen will lead to large leaves and soft growth.
Excess potash will lead to small leaves with a woody appearance. Frequent weak feeds are
better than infrequent strong ones.
The Society has a stock of Chempak fertilisers to suit all plants and
requirements. These are available at the Show and are also regularly available at the
monthly meetings.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: We are
told that fuchsias should be potted on to the next size pot only, is this true?
Answer:
You can break this rule only when they are growing very vigorously
during late Spring. At this they will accept readily a larger container and will rapidly
spread their roots.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: Can you
turn any fuchsia into a fuchsia tree. If so, how is it done?
Answer:
If a vigorous growing variety, such as Joan Smith, Phyllis, Rufus or
Barbara, were to be given a free root run in the soil of a temperate greenhouse/climate,
and was not allowed to go completely dormant, it would grow on from the old wood year
after year to form a structure of tree proportions. At first one would have to train the
main stem/trunk like a standard to discourage the natural branching habit of the plant.
Also, some years ago a correspondent said that he had found a specimen of what was
believed to be Fuchsia Riccartonii in a Church Yard in London, the trunk of which was
about 10 cms in diameter.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: How can I
grow Texas Longhorn?
Answer:
Texas Longhorn is a very hard fuchsia to grow. However, it has
been suggested that Texas Longhorn (and other doubles that do not have many flowers) do
better if grown with more than one plant in a single pot, or are allowed to become pot
bound.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: I have
several standard fuchsias planted in a border and one of the plants looked it hadn't had
any water for a long time (wilted). I dug it up expecting to find vine weevel grubs but
when the soil was washed of there were no grubs but he roots were just brown, there were
no small white roots. I have now put the plant in fresh compost and moved it away from the
others.
Answer:
Your fuchsia might have a pest called Red Spider. There is some
information on controlling Red Spider on the Web site Pest Control section and a
description in the Compendium under R. You should also separate the plant from the
others and cut it back and probably burn the leaves.
Another possibility is that it has not been watered sufficiently and the
roots withered - this could be the case if you have a large shrub nearby and it is taking
all the water. It has also been suggested that the plant may be waterlogged probably
because of poor drainage, but if the others are OK then this is probably not the case.
It is also likely that it is some form of soil borne fungus
attacking the roots. This sort of problem is always difficult to deal with as you can
never be sure what the cause might be. Your plant might recover and the other fuchsias in
the garden might not be affected. As a precaution water the ground with Armillatox -
read label before you purchase and follow the instructions carefully.
Other Places to Look:
BPFS Pest Control pages
Question: What
Fuchsias make good Hanging Baskets?
Answer:
A list of Cultivars that make good hanging baskets hanging baskets is
located in our Lists Section.
Other Places to Look:
BPFS Lists.
BPFS Photo File for
photos of the fuchsias mentioned above.
Question: The
Fuchsia I have been cultivating for our show is flowering too soon. How do I hold it
back?
Answer:
This question was sourced from an email received on 29 July 2001, and
the full question is as follows:
"I have an allocated plant - SPORTY - to show at the East
Yorkshire Fuchsia Society's Annual Show on 18 August. I have really looked after the plant
(it is my first time of showing!!) and was really pleased with myself until.... > the
buds started to ripen and now they are bursting open - 3 weeks too soon!! HOW CAN I
SLOW IT DOWN UNTIL THE 18 AUGUST!"
In this case there is approximately 2½ weeks to when this specimen was
need to be at its best. The advice given at the time was to remove any flowers that
have already come out, as well as the more mature buds, and hope that the plant comes back
into bud and bloom again in time for the show. Otherwise, it will certainly be past its
best by 18 August, where as if you do this you will have a 50-50 chance. There is
considerable risk with this approach, especially if we get foul weather for the next few
weeks.
Other Places to Look:
No Suggestions.
Question: What are
the optimum pinching dates to make a fuchsia flower in time for the show?
Answer:
The following table provides a guide to when you should pinch your
Fuchsia to provide optimum flower for the show. Take the date of your show and work
backwards subtracting the days shown below.
Type |
Penultimate pinch |
Last Pinch |
Species & Triphyllas |
111 days before show |
90 days before show |
Double |
101 days before show |
80 days before show |
Semi double |
91 days before show |
70 days before show |
Single |
81 days before show |
60 days before show |
Other Places to Look:
The BFS
Web Site has a Pinching Date calculator.
Question: When is
the best time to replant fuchsias?
Answer:
This question was received from a correspondent of the Web site in late
March 2002. Her question was:
"I have three fuchsias in my border which are now too big for
the area. I wish to move them but don't know what is the best time of year to do this. At
the moment they are just starting their new growth, I have left last years growth on them
as I was lead to believe that this would protect them from frost. Please let me know what
to do as I would ideally like to move them now so that I can prepare the bed for
summer."
The answer we sent back was:
"This should be done as soon as possible. The fuchsias need to
be cut down near to ground level and given a good watering 24 hours before attempting to
move them. . Some varieties grow like herbaceous plants and can be split into several
sections to make extra plants. Prepare new site by incorporating plenty of humus and dust
the hole with Fish,Blood and Bone fertiliser or Vitax Q4. Plant firmly, water well."
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
Thanks to DL for his prompt reply.
Question: Are
Fuchsias Annual or Perennial?
Answer:
Fuchsias are perennial, but they need the right conditions to survive.
The right conditions are dependant upon the particular cultivar, and how and where it is
grown. There are a number of fuchsias that are hardy if grown in the ground, but if in a
container they should be regarded as frost shy,and kept frost free during the winter
months.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
None
Question: Growing
Fuchsias from Seed
Answer:
Q: We have been growing fuchsias for a couple of years now, from seed,
and would like to know when he should be pinching out the growing tip. We have been doing
this when the first two leaves have appeared - is this correct? Can you advise why our
fuchsias always grow very long and gangly - how can we prevent this? The plants that we
see in garden centres always seem so small and compact.
A: Wait until you have four pairs of leaves plus growing tip. Pinch out
leaving three pairs of leaves on the plant. Use the piece you have pinched out as a
cutting. This will generally root and overtake the mother plant and flower first.
You should pot seedling up at this stage into no more than a 1.5 inch pot and then
continue as I have already stated.
Q: Can you advise why our fuchsias always grow very long and gangly -
how can we prevent this? The plants that we see in garden centres always seem so small and
compact.
A: Lower temperature or more light. Seedlings to germinate need a
temperature of about 65F but this can be lowered to 43F once well rooted. Temperature can
be raised to 50F at the end of March when natural light is better. Do not be too quick in
giving them high nitrogen feed as this also makes them drawn. Better to wait until better
light conditions prevail. Look at our web site www.bpfs.org.uk go to compendium. There you
will find plenty of tips.Why not join your local fuchsia society?
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
None
Question: Pruning
back an Overwintered Standard
Answer:
Q: I have a standard fuchsia which was brought for me for a birthday in
may last year. I have put it in the garage and wrapped it up in fleece, I looked at it the
other day and it now has shoots on it. What I need to know is how to prune it back so it
can be as beautiful this year as last. I live in Surrey, England.
A: Re-pot your fuchsia by removing old compost from roots trying not to
damage them too much. If it is in a 12" pot I would expect it to be re-potted into an
8" pot. This is an important task as a vigorous root system gives better top growth.
Let it settle for a week or so and then prune back the head retaining a ball shape with
evidence of new shoots appearing at end of each cut. ( You can prune back first and leave
for a week or so and re-pot). To aid the development of these shoots spray the head with
water daily as this softens the bark and encourages better growth. Adding Maxicrop at feed
strength to the spray is beneficial. Do not let the roots become dry. If any of the new
shoots are white they can be removed, others will take their place. On suitable days your
plant can be stood outside, remembering to take it in before the temperature drops to far
in late afternoon. I find a north facing sheltered spot better than a position facing
south. I live in Poole and during the day in direct sunlight the temperature can race up
and then as the day wears on drop dramatically, something that fuchsias do not respond
too. Continue to cover your plant with fleece at night.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
None
Question: I have
left my fuchsias too long in hibernation and they have spurted in the dark.
Answer:
Q: I have left my fuchsias too long in hibernation and they
have spurted in the dark. They now
have long white spurts instead of nice buds. Should
I leave them like this and write off flowers for this year or is there any point in
cutting back the spurts in the hope that they will recover for this year?
A: Remove all the shoots that are white
(etiolated) and spray the plants everyday with tepid water adding Maxicrop at feed
strength if possible. As soon as you get new green shoots prune and re-pot your plants.
The results will be far better than if you leave them to their own devices.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
None
Question: Is it
possible to take fuchsias back to Japan?
Answer:
There is an FAQ article
on our Web Site relating to fuchsias suitable to be cultivated in Japan.
One of our members sent samples of Fuchsias as hardwood cuttings to
Japan, which were planted and grew into full fuchsias. These were sent with one end cut
into a slope to indicate the growing direction. This type cutting will not be available
until late (UK) autumn. Pieces of hardwood of this years growth containing four
leaf joints is required. These are inserted round the edge of the pot so that two leaf
joints are below the surface
There are restrictions about sending seeds and cuttings to Japan, but I
suggest you look into some of the sites listed on our Web links section and in particular Find That Fuchsia site which is now our standard
reference for suppliers in the UK on the internet.
Other Places to Look:
BPFS Web Links section
BPFS FAQ Section
Acknowledgements
None
Question: Are there
any fuchsias that are Orange?
Answer:
The following is a list of fuchsias with orange sepals and corolla.
Alde
Barry Sheppard
Bellbottoms
Bernard Rawlins
Boson's Norah
California Queen
Celebration
Charleston
Cinnamon
Clio
Cricket
Erika Koth
Gilt Edge
Golden Arrow
Golden Glory
Golden Glow
Golden West
Grace Groom
Grand Duke |
Greensleeves
Groene Kan's Glorie
Hampshire Treasure
Idlanthe
Inferno
John Hannon
John Maynard Scales
Koralle (Coralle)
Lark
Laura
Loxensis
Lunterse Zon
Mikado
Miranda Morris
Nell Gwyn
Orange Crush
Orange Crystal
Orange Dream
Orange Drops |
Orange Flare
Orange Flash
Oriental Sunrise
Otto Krunze
Parkway
Ruddigor
Rumba
Santa Barbara
Schnabel
Shanley
Sun Dial
Sunningdale
Tiburon
Vanessa Jackson
Vivien Colville
Vuurwerk
Walz Fluit |
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
Thanks to DL for doing the research on this answer.
Question: Is it
possible to purchase cuttings or small fuchsia plants this time of year (July/August)?
Answer:
It is too late in the year (July/August) to buy cuttings to bring on now
as it is really the end of the season. The best time to buy is in the early spring when
most suppliers will be well stocked. Take a look at our web links section or specifically the Find That Fuchsia site which will
list a number of suppliers in the UK. You might also consider coming to one of our regular
meetings where you can get more specific information by chatting to our members. Our
meetings are on the 2nd Thursday of each month at Kinson Community Centre and start at
7:30.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
None
Question: Can i
plant my hardy fushias in hanging baskets? If so, how do i look after them when winter
comes?
Answer:
Yes you can plant "Hardies" in hanging baskets and with some
skill you can even make them hang down. In the winter you have to keep them in frost free
conditions and slightly damp. Then in the spring, you renew some of the compost, spray
with tepid water, and they should come back to life.
Other Places to Look:
BPFS Fuchsias
for Hanging Baskets List
Acknowledgements
None
Question: I
have a standard fuchsia, which he has over wintered in our garden shed. When and how
should I prune it?
Answer:
An overwintered standard should have been pruned before it was stored.
However, now it should be in growth and you can shape it to whatever you so desire. If its
a bit slow you should spray it with warm water to help soften the bark and help the new
growth to break. Also it is as well to check if in fact there is life in the plant,
scratch a little of the bark off to check if the wood is green, if it is you should also
start to feed it a quarter strength dilution of Chempac No2 which will help to accelerate
growth.
Other Places to Look:
Fuchsia Compendium
Acknowledgements
None
Question: One
of our overwintered standards is not doing too well. Can you help?
Answer:
This question was sourced from an email, and the full question is as
follows:
"We have 2 standard fuchsias bought from a grower in Bordon, Hants 2 years ago
this spring/summer. They overwinter in our conservatory which gets the sun, but in
bringing them outside this year we have a major problem with one. Variety is Torvill &
Dean. We pruned both standards at the same time, & at the same time as last year, but
on this plant it hardly produced any leaves, now has short branches with small leaves only
on the ends but does have flowers. Leaves look healthy enough although v.small. Have no
idea if we have overwatered, underwatered, or whatever. The other plant is better, has
leaves but not as prolific or strong as last year. Any advice you can give would be much
appreciated."
In the Spring it is best to scrape some of the compost off the roots and
re-pot the standard back into the same or smaller pot. Spraying the hard wood with tepid
water in spring also helps to make the new shoots develop. I would advise now just to feed
for a couple of weeks with a high nitrogen fertiliser then change to a balanced
fertiliser; Chempak no2 feedto start with in the Spring, and then No3 quarter strength
from the summer, every day. It often helps to lay them on their side for a while, as
it helps the sap to start up to the head a bit quicker. While laid down give them a
quarter turn every other day.
Other Places to Look:
BPFS Compendium
Acknowledgements
DL & DJ (Members)
PS.
We received some feedback from the originator of this question on the progress
following our advice (it is always nice to hear if things worked out OK follolwing
answering a question). Here is what they said:
"We really appreciated all the advice you gave us, and for taking the time and
trouble. One of the standards, Eva Borg, has made a complete recovery, has been absolutely
wonderful, and is blooming beautifully as we speak! Unfortunately the other,
Torvill & Dean did not recover at all. Once again, our thanks to you and your
society!"
Question: How do I start Hybrisiding Fuchsias?
Answer:
This question was sourced from an email, and the full question is as
follows:
"I intend to start hybridising Fuchsias and want to begin with small singles
about the size of 'Anita'. Please can you let me know if any of the orange hybrids that
you have listed on your answers page fit this category."
There are about 150 fuchsias with an orange corolla with many shades of
colours in the sepals. You may have to cross and recross many times before you arrive at
your dream. .
Other Places to Look:
Two books that might be of use. Try borrowing from the library
Acknowledgements
DL & DJ (Members)
Question: Can
you tell me whether too much horse manure is bad for fuchsias, or just better?
Answer:
This question was sourced from an email, and the full question is as
follows:
"Can you tell me whether too much horse manure is bad for fuchsias, or just
better? Fuchsia standards last year were grown in pure manure in large terracotta
pots and were still flowering Christmas day,they over wintered in the garage and are now
ready for action again.Should I repot in fresh manure again or other wise? Can you
advise?"
You were very lucky that your fuchsias survived being planted in pure
horse manure and that the horse manure was so well rotted that it resembled peat. We
suggest that in future, to be safe, put some horse manure in the tub then a layer of
potting compost so that the plant's roots do not come directly in cotact with the manure.
I have done this myself for hanging baskets. Manure of any type where the straw or other
litter can be still recognised is not suitable for use. The decomposition of this robs the
ground of nitrogen. Well rotted manure can be used freely on the garden except for root
crops.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
Question: Do I
have something special?
Answer:
This question was sourced from an email, and the full question is as
follows:
"I'm not what you would call and expert gardener, I just grow what I like, and
I like fuchsias. I bought some plug fuchsias from Tescos and think that I may have
something special. One bush is in flower and there are two different coloured blooms on
one stem. One blue and white and one pink and purple (see attached photo). Could you
please tell me if it is special. I have checked many times and the blooms are on the one
single stem and not on two separate plants."
The flower on the right looks like Carmel Blue. The other flower is a
"sport" and could be a new variety (see our Fuchsia Compendium for a definition). Mark the stem with a piece of
wool so you know which is which and take cuttings in the spring. If the same blooms
appear in the summer, you may well have a new variety.
Other Places to Look:
Fuchsia Compendium
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
Question: How do I take cutting from my Fuchsias?
Answer:
There is a very good
article in our Articles Section on this subject.
Other Places to Look:
Articles Section
Acknowledgements
DL & DJ (Members)
Question: How do I get Fuchsia seeds?
Answer:
Growing from seed to getting a worthwhile plant is about 18 months, and most turn out
to be of poor quality. To grow from seed your best bet is to buy "Chimes" from
Dobies or other Seed Company.
I would suggest that you locate some fuchsia enthusiast in your area who are generally
only to willing to give a few cuttings of proven hybrids.There is a fuchsia society in
Coventry. In the first instance contact Mrs J Brown 02476 370639 who is the British
Fuchsia Society Representative for the area.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
Question: Sun or Shade - What is best for Fuchsias?
Answer:
Fuchsias cease to grow above a temperature of 24C so it would seem that in direct sun
and with radiated heat from a wall the position would be too hot.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
Question: How do I Graft Fuchsias?
Answer:
Grafting fuchsias is another cultivation method that involves 'splicing' one variety
with another. There is a good
articles in our artucles section on this subject
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
Question: How do I make my own Compost?
Answer:
In these days of growing conservation, it makes sence to make as much use of recycling
as possible. Also, with the initiative from the Bourneouth Borough Council to
recycle more, it would make sence to compost all your unwanted organic garden and kitchen
rubbish.
A good site to look at is "The Compost Guide", which will tell you all about how to make
your own!
Composters come in various sizes and types. There are some pre-fabricated plastic
ones, but I have found that these restrict access for turning the compost. Others
are just 4 walls made from wood with a piece of old carpet on top for a lid. You can
buy these, but I found I could make a better, and cheaper, one myself by buying the
treated wood and building it myself. There are various other paterns, and some
suggestions can be seen on the Better
Homes Guide web site (root site is www.bhg.com just in case they change the link again, and search for
composters).
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
JM (Member)
Question: How do I overwinter a Standard?
Answer:
There is one question that I am always asked at this time of year, 'how do I over
winter a standard'?
My answer to this (which incidentally works for me every year) is well before the first
frosts take your standard into the greenhouse and let it dry out. Once on the dry
side, defoliate it, and place it in a frost free place (e.g. shed, garage) but lay it
horizontally so the sap can run free within the stem. Once a fortnight or three week
interval stand it upright and give it a light watering and replace it to its horizontal
position. Then providing the temperature can be kept about 50- 52 degrees place in the
green house, at the end of January start feeding with a weak high nitrogen feed.
I hope this has been of help.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
Thanks to Dave Mead (correspondent), who provided this helpfull advice,
Question: My new Standard is Wilting!
Answer:
Extended Question: "I bought a standard fuchsia 2
days ago it has started wilting already. It was in full sunlight. I have moved it to
a more shadier place and I have also re-potted it in a larger clay planter which I filled
with fresh compost. Should i put it back in it`s original pot?
Fuchsias do not like it too hot (look at previous FAQ answers in this
page) and in particular hot dry heat. For now leave it in the new pot and stand it
in the shade until the weather is cooler.
Other Places to Look:
Cultivation FAQ
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
Question: What
is the best planting site for hardy fushias?
Answer:
If planted in full sun the plant needs a good 2” of mulch to
protect the roots from the heat. When planting make the hole 3 or 4” deeper and plant
at this level. The extra depth will help to get the plant through the winter. Fuchsias are
not very fussy on soil type but added humus is always appreciated. Water regularly when
first planted and do not forget to add fertiliser from time to time. Shade or full sun is
your choice but a site facing north will allow the plant to flower longer in my
experience.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
Question: Pruning Standard Fuchsias?
I have two standard fuchsias they are still very green with leaves and
also flowers, there are quite a few flower buds, Do I need to prune if so how far back and
when is the best time?
Answer:
Pruning your standards depends on what you wish to do with them. If you
are going to put them in a flower show they would need pruning back to make it more
compact and an even shape. If you intend to just have them in your garden prune back to
keep them a nice shape and this only as far back as is required to fill the space
available and in proportion to the height of the standard. This can be done any time now
(January 2007). If the cut ends bleed dab powdered charcoal, rooting hormone powder or a
latex glue onto these ends to prevent the sap running down the twig where sooty mould
would start to grow. To help prevent this withhold water for a while but do not let the
plant become bone dry.
Other Places to Look:
None
Acknowledgements
DL (Member)
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