Fuchsia Compendium

Fuchsia Compendium - T

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

TEMPERATURE - the temperature required in a greenhouse through the winter is a minimum of 1C, a further drop of a degree or so is acceptable as long as it is not prolonged. Triphyllas and some of the softer species may succumb, so if you are struggling to keep your greenhouse heated think about insulating those types with fleece, or something similar. The maximum advisable temperature through the winter is 9C. There is not sufficient light to warrant it being any higher. You can raise the temperature to 10C in March. During the summer 21C is plenty warm enough. Plants do not respond well to fluctuating temperatures. Low temperatures slows growth and high temperatures stop it. A cool greenhouse is one kept at 6-7C and if you raise the temperature to 10C you will double the fuel bill, and if you raise the temperature to 16C the bill will be four times the original figure. When considering buying a heater, degrees lift must be taken into consideration. This refers to the capability of the heater to raise the temperature by 14C. Therefore if the outside temperature is 0C the heater must be able to raise the temperature to 14C.

THERMAL VAPORISERS - specialist piece of equipment that heats up a purpose made insecticide sending an invisible vapour around the greenhouse.

THERMOMETERS - the most useful thermometer in the greenhouse is the maximum and minimum thermometer known as the Sixth’s thermometer named after James Six. It tells you the lowest temperature since you last looked and the highest, not forgetting the present temperature. I have found that fuchsias are happier if the difference between day and night temperature is not vastly different. Another useful one is the soil thermometer for helping to judge the right temperature of your soil warming cable.

THERMOSTAT - an electrical device invaluable for turning on and off the power supply to heaters.

THRIPS - small brown or black insects which feed on flowers and leaves. An indication of thrips damage is silvery speckling on flowers and foliage. If you are uncertain stand plant on a white sheet and tap the plant the thrips fall down. Spraying with a suitable insecticide or hanging the blue sticky traps around the plant will attract them away. In the spring if you look between the petals of a Dandelion you will very often find thrips.

THUMBS - you often read : Do not use your thumbs when re-potting. Why? If I can press on an egg without breaking it surely I can judge whether I am firming the compost too much or not. Blow "green fingers" lets have more "green thumbs". MOHO-DJL

TIP CUTTING - this is the smallest piece that can be taken from a fuchsia’s growing tip and used to increase your stock by conventional means.

TRACE ELEMENT - plants need many and various nutrients to sustain growth and those that are required in minute amounts are referred to as trace elements.

TRAILING - any fuchsia referred to as trailing are suitable for growing in hanging baskets or as weeping standards.

TRAINING - the skill of getting a plant to grow into a required shape; i.e. Pyramid.

TRANSLOCATION - is when a plant displaces or moves nutrients or other substances from one part of the plant to another. The translocation of nitrogen can occur from the older leaves to the young ones when there is insufficient nitrogen in the compost.

TRANSPIRATION - The expulsion and loss of water through the leaves. When excessive leads to wilting. This is a necessary action as it stimulates the absorption of moisture and nutrients through the roots.

TRIPHYLLA - meaning three leafed and all supposedly having true triphylla blood in them. A group of hybrid fuchsias that enjoy being planted in a sunny aspect and are recognised by their terminal flowering habit along with long tubes and small corollas. The stopping time for triphyllas is longer than ordinary types 13 - 16 weeks depending on variety.

TROPISMS - the two affecting fuchsias to a greater extent is geotropism and phototropism. The first is the effect of gravity and the second light.

TUBE - the part of the flower joining the sepals and ovary.

TURGID - the condition of the plant when it is fully charged with water.

TURNING - remember to give your plants in pots a quarter turn clockwise regularly.

TWEEZERS( LONG) - useful accessory when dressing your plant.

TWISTING - when tying in the stems of espaliers or fans be careful not to twist the stems as this restricts the sap flow.