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Fuchsia Compendium

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Fuchsia Compendium - G

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

GARDEN CHEMICALS - Using insecticides is not as straight forward as we might like to think. The habit and life cycle of the individual pest dictate as what, when and where we use these products. Temperature has also to be taken into consideration. A minimum of about 60F or 14C is required. Please read the instructions on all labelling carefully. Do not mix more than you can spray in one day. Use fungicides within half an hour of mixing. Dispose of any mixture left or undiluted product that is out of date into a hole dug specifically for that purpose, or failing that into the sewage system. Do not dispose on areas adjacent to ponds, ditches, streams or rivers. For further information on disposal contact your local Water Board Pollution Control Department. If your chemical has lost it’s label do not use as it might not be what you think.. Solid chemicals within their containers can be put in the dustbin and empty glass containers should be wrapped before putting in the dustbin. Also see Chemicals. The items in this paragraph were gleaned from the Directory of Garden Chemicals issued by the British Agrochemicals Association.

GARDEN DIRECT - the mail order division where many of the products mention on these pages can be purchased. E-mail:sales@chempak.co.uk for catalogue.

GENUS - is a group consisting of a number of similar species (sometimes only one), and similar genera which are grouped into a family, which in the case of fuchsias is Onagraceae. The fuchsia genus is split into eleven sections: Ellobium, Encliandra, Fuchsia, (formerly Eufuchsia), Hemsleyella, Jimenezia, Kierschlegeria, Pachyrrhiza, Procumbentes, Quelusia, Schufia, Skinnera.

GEOTROPISM - the term describes the orientation of plants under the influence of gravity. Negatively geotropic, (upward growing types suitable for a pyramid) and diageotropic (horizontal growth) and positively geotropic (obedient to the laws of gravity) both suitable to grow on as baskets. That is why negatively geotropic type fuchsias have branches tied to a temporary frame when growing a pyramid, as allowing the branches to sag would cause loss of energy . The energy would be transferred to upward facing buds.

GERMINATION OF POLLEN - this occurs after the pollen has adhered to the stigma and requires the stigma to be receptive and the temperature should be around 70F 20C.

GERMINATION OF SEEDS - germination can be erratic from a few days to several weeks. Sometimes the seeds germinate when you have almost given up hope. Sow seeds onto the surface of soilless compost that has been gently firmed so as to give a smooth surface. Cover with vermiculite that is saturated with water but only thick enough to hide the colour of the compost. This allows the seed to have enough light and be in contact with moisture. Do not water until seed has germinated. A temperature of about 60 F- 65 F 16 - 19 C will complete the process. Another way that is successful is to so fill a half seed tray with compost sow the seed and lay a piece of thin polythene on top of the seed. Do not be in too much of a hurry to remove the covering after germination . Gradually acclimatise them to the atmosphere of your greenhouse. This is the way I do it which is in contrast to other methods. Try all the different ways and use the one that suits. MOHO DJL.

GRAFTING - fuchsias can be grafted but it is only practised on those varieties that do not make good whips for a standard.

GREENFLY - also known as Aphids or Plant Lice. Generally the most likely Aphid to attack fuchsias. Spray with a suitable insecticide

GREENHOUSE - not essential but very useful. Keep glass, benches and floor clean. When erecting a green house take into consideration the aspect into which it is going to be placed. A north/south ridge will give you more light taking the year as a whole. East/west will give you more light in the winter which is important for early propagation and a greenhouse sited this way does not need shading on the north side.

GREY MOULD - see Botrytis .

GRIT - is often added to composts to aid better drainage and is often used 50/50 with peat for rooting cuttings. Cornish grit is favourite but in it’s absence builder’s flooring grit is a good substitute

GROOMING - the art of cleaning, tying, and arranging the plant for show. Also see Dressing.

GRUB/MAGGOT - a maggot is the larvae of certain flies, has no legs and no defined head, whereas a grub has legs and a brown head. See Sciarid ( maggot) Vine Weevil (grub).

GUTTATION - is when water is forced out of or exuded from the leaves during periods of high humidity.

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