Fuchsia Compendium - F
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
F1 HYBRID - first filial generation. The offspring
resulting from crossing plants of two species; i.e. F. fulgens x F. triphylla =
"Koralle" or F. splendens x F. boliviana = "Whiteknights Cascade"
F2 HYBRID - second filial generation. The off spring of crossing siblings or
other F1 hybrids; i. e. "Koralle" x "Whiteknights Glisten".
FASCIATION - seen on fuchsia stems and occasionally flowers. It is a condition
where a number of stems or flowers seem to be fused and flattened together. Remedy by
cutting out affected part and do not use for cuttings.
FEEDING - use a weak feed occasionally during the winter. From Spring onwards feed
regularly with either a high nitrogen then a general feed followed by a high potash
feed or alternatively a general feed throughout the growing season. Whether you feed your
plant full strength once a week or a lesser strength every time you water is a matter of
much debate. All camps seem to be successful with their way. I prefer quarter strength
feed one watering a day and only apply it if the plant actually needs watering.
FERTILISATION - union of male and female cells after pollination.
FERTILISERS - these are many and various and all necessary in some form or other
for plants to grow. Also see Nutrients.
FILAMENT - stem of the anther.
FLEECE - is invaluable for protecting your plants both from the cold and the heat;
also useful for covering your plants when transporting them. Wrap roots of established pot
plants as an additional defence against vine weevils. Which is very useful when
growing standards, use a twist tie to seal fleece around base of stem. Mulch
over with compost. Can be used a shading material in the greenhouse. If it should get
grubby put it in the washing machine, short wash for woollens. Comes up like new. My wife
does not know about this yet.
FLOWER DAMAGE - torn, cut or damaged with brown marks; culprits bees
or wasps. Slight scars; culprit leaf hopper. Silver spotting; culprit thrips.
FLOWER PARTS - See anthers, calyx, carpels,
corolla, filaments, hypanthium, ovary, pedicel,
perianth, petals, pistil, sepals, stamens, stigma, tube.
FLOWER POT - what is a flower pot? A fuchsia will grow in any container, large or
small as long as it has drainage holes. If you want to show your fuchsias it is wise to
grow them in terracotta or terracotta coloured pots. The definition being - if the pot is
five inches across it should not be more than five inches tall and with a definite taper.
If you follow this rule you should never evoke the wrath of the judges. Beware growing in
red, yellow, pink or green, on the show bench should never be seen..
FLOWERS - on fuchsias are classed as single, semi double and
double. Some fuchsias flower after leaf fall; i.e. F. decidua.
FLOWERS OF SULPHUR - a chemical used as an acidifier of soil and a fungicide
for mildews. Also used as a fumigant.
FOLIAR FEED - suitable fertilisers like Maxicrop can sprayed over the plant
so that nutrients can be absorbed by the leaves.
FRIENDS - Violet Ground Beetle, Ichneumen Fly, Chalcid Wasp,
Ladybirds and their larvae, Centipede, Lace Wing, Spiders, Harvestman, Solitary
Wasps, Wasps (friend & foe), Nematodes.
FRITS - a type of powdered glass that carries the trace elements required by
plants. Generally used by those who make up their own compost mixtures. Also see Chempak
FROGHOPPER - also known as cuckoo spit. A small green insect sucks the sap and
surrounds itself with froth. Causes distortion to young shoots. Occasionally seen on
fuchsias in the garden. Pick off and squash, or knock off with water spray and then spray
over with a contact insecticide.
FROST - fuchsias other than the hardies planted in the garden need to be
protected from frost. Fuchsias other than the triphylla types only need to be kept frost
free, that is just above freezing point. The Triphyllas need to be kept slightly
warmer. All can suffer from frost damage .
FROST DAMAGE - the damage, signs and symptoms to fuchsias vary depending on how low
the temperature dropped and how well the plants were hardened off. The plant can have a
bleached look and the bottom leaves having a distorted, blistered or cracked surface. A
slight chill can cause the leaves to take on a bronze or bluish hue. It is very useful to
find out when on average the first frost arrives and the last frost of spring/summer is
past. In the Poole area on average the last frost is April 15th and the first
frost arrives some time after November 1st. This does not take into
consideration frost pockets. Prevention is always better than cure. The wise thing to do
is gradually acclimatise your plants to the outside world. A fortnight of taking your
plants out of the greenhouse during the day if the weather permits and returning them at
night is generally sufficient. If after all this the plants are frosted, pick off all the
badly affected leaves and nature with a bit of luck will replace them. If it was a spring
frost spray over the plant with maxicrop. If you can get to the plants early enough, and
before the sun gets on them, spray them with water. It is always handy to have some
fleece, sacking, old curtains or even news papers on standby for when that cold night is
forecast.
FUCHSICIDES - required by some as an antidote to fuchsia fanaticism.
FUCHSIA NEWS - a quarterly newsletter sent out to the affiliated Fuchsia Societies
of the B.F.S. Edited by the CADS.
FUMIGANT - see Smokes
FUNGICIDE - to control diseases.
FUNGICIDES - more effective if applied before an attack. Prevention is better than
cure. Fungicides are useful for the prevention of rusts, mildews and Botrytis on fuchsias.
FUNGUS FLIES -see Sciarid Flies.
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