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Grafting Fuchsias

The grafting of fuchsias has no horticultural advantage other than producing more than one type of flower per plant, and can only be used to advantage on fuchsias grown as standards.

Use a hardy variety to start with, as they are easier to get through the winter.
Having grown your standard to the required height grow on as normal for the first year.
At the end of September in the Northern Hemisphere cut the standard's head back by one third. Remove all the leaves and spray against diseases as a preventive measure.
You will find that your standard comes back into leaf again after three or four weeks.
Now it is a case of keeping the standard in leaf through the winter. Minimum Temperature required is approximately 40 F (4.5 C).
In early March prune head back hard to produce new shoots where your grafting will take place.
In the first week of May or earlier if you can maintain a constant temperature of 55 F (12 C) Prune the standard back to the first node on the new growth.
This is the point (stock) where the grafting takes place. Take a cutting (scion), preferably a single, from a plant that has been well watered several hours before.
This cutting (scion) is trimmed below the third from tip leaf node leaving sufficient stem below the node to cut it into a wedge shape.
The cutting (Scion) is then inserted into the stock which has been carefully slit vertically.
This union is tied together using raffia and then a polythene bag is tied on to cover the cutting.
At no time should the standard now be subjected to any sunshine until the graft has taken which, with luck, will be between four and five weeks.

Grapfting

You can do this as many times as the stock will allow and use different varieties on the same head.

EK - Member