Articles Written By Members and Associates

Preparing for Winter

Four Types of Growing Techniques to Consider.

1. Hardy fuchsias in the garden.
2. Summer bedding.
3. Plants in pots.
4. Plants grown on the biennial method.

Hardy fuchsias in the Garden.

In this part of the country a covering of peat or soil drawn over the crown is sufficient. The top growth is normally left untouched as it helps to protect the crown, but any that is in the way can be trimmed back. The main pruning is done in the spring when the new growth is evident. Hedges need more protection. Cover the crowns as already said, but protect the top growth by weaving bracken or straw amongst the branches. Wire netting helps to keep it in place. Now modern technology has given us fleece, which placed over the hedge would give good protection during bad spells of cold weather. In severe weather polythene could be secured over the hedge to give added protection.

Summer Bedding.

This applies to fuchsias which are planted directly in the ground but are too tender to leave out through the winter. Ideally wait until the plant becomes dormant. The first frost generally does a good job of getting rid of most of the leaves, but if you cannot wait this long cut off sappy growth and strip remaining leaves by hand. Remember that some of the species and the triphylla types are frost shy, so always try to deal with those first.They need to be stored in a frost-free area like a greenhouse, cold frame, shed, garage, cellar or attic. Dig up the plants you wish to keep and be ruthless in your selection, as we all keep too many. Tidy root ball and trim off withered and broken stems, then reduce head to about three nodes on each stem. Tie a label to the plant and pot up into the smallest pot that will comfortably accommodate the roots. If you so wish, more than one plant can be placed into a container, and tomato trays, ice cream tubs or buckets can be used as long as there is adequate drainage. Cover the roots with compost, peat or soil. Spray with an insecticide followed by a fungicide, do not mix these unless the manufacturer allows. Let the plants dry out but not become dust dry. Remember that standards and fuchsias grown as "large structures" need to be kept slightly more moist while dormant. Now they are in containers they can be treated as plants in pots, as follows.

Plants in Pots.

To prepare for dormancy water is gradually withheld. Allow to dry out slowly but do not allow to get dust dry. Cut back as for summer bedding and spray against pests and diseases. If these or the summer bedding fuchsias are going to be over-wintered in a heated greenhouse I think it is better to repot them all using fresh compost. This way you will reduce the number of soil-borne pests like vine weevil. Now where to over-winter? Wherever chosen it must be frost-free by either supplying minimal heat or extra protection. The extra protection can be given by covering plants with peat, straw, bracken, leaves or any other suitable insulating material, but in my experience avoid shredded polystyrene, it gets everywhere. Individual pots can be wrapped in bubble film for added protection. The plants in their pots can be stood upright or laid on their sides. On their sides has two advantages: less likelihood of water getting into pots and less depth of insulating material required. Check on their condition every now and then. Watch out for Botrytis and Mildew. Are the plants still moist enough?

Biennial Method.

These plants are generally kept in a greenhouse at a minimum temperature of 40 degrees F. Growth will cease during the winter so no feeding is required and the plants are kept on the dry side but never allowed to dry out. Fuchsias grown in this manner are kept in green leaf throughout the winter. Keep a sharp look-out for pests. I have found that hardy varieties of fuchsias can tolerate lower temperatures without losing their leaves.

DL (member)
First published in the November 1997 news letter